How to Make 100% Whole Wheat Sourdough Bread

It’s the ultimate in home baking—the holy grail, the perfect standard….

I’m talking about 100% whole wheat sourdough bread, of course.

This is the kind of bread Ma Ingalls would have made. It sustained the pioneers. It’s the quintessential old-fashioned loaf. Yet, it can feel stupidly hard to replicate in our modern home kitchens. In fact, whole grain sourdough bread stumped me for years, so much so that I gave up on it completely for a while.

It wasn’t until many years later that I realized the problem: I was putting unfair expectations on my whole wheat dough. You can’t treat it like white flour because it isn’t white flour.

(Obvious? Perhaps… but it took me a long time to get there.)

So, how do we honor the “whole wheatness of the wheat” (hat tip to Joel Salatin) and let our whole grain breads shine? (And also be edible?)

I recently had Mary of The Rose Homestead on my podcast to discuss this very topic. She’s a no-nonsense home baker who uses whole grains extensively. Our conversation was so enlightening that I pulled out the big takeaways to share today. Plus, she generously allowed me to share her 100% whole wheat sourdough recipe as well.

(Listen to the whole interview here: Cracking the Whole Wheat Sourdough Code)

Why IS Whole Wheat Sourdough So Difficult??

Whole wheat flour contains the bran and germ, which makes it more nutritious. However, this is a double-edged sword because the bran and germ are sharp on a microscopic level. When we knead whole wheat doughs, the bran and germ cut through the gluten strands, resulting in a denser, less elastic dough.

This is why, if you’ve ever attempted a whole wheat loaf, you’ve probably been disappointed by the rise.

Gluten may be Public Enemy #1 these days, but in baking, it’s our friend. We need strong and well-developed gluten for our loaves to rise properly.

Whole wheat dough also absorbs more liquid than white dough. This means we need to adjust our liquid amounts and resting periods to avoid dry, crumbly loaves.

Combining these factors with the nuances of wild yeast explains why so many home bakers struggle with their whole wheat sourdough recipes.

Thankfully, there are workarounds for all these issues.

So Why Even Bother….? 

I’m glad you asked. First off, nutrition:

Whole wheat flours, especially those made from heirloom wheat varieties, are far more nutritious than the run-of-the-mill flour at the grocery store. In fact, when refined flours first hit the market in the early 1900s, nutritional deficiencies became so prevalent there was a public health crisis. This prompted the US government to require manufacturers to fortify processed flours with nutrients—a measure that continues to this day. (And of course, we know that processed “nutrients” will never be as good as the real thing.)

Next, whole wheat is a whole food, which means our bodies handle it differently. I notice this most when I’m eating toast in the morning. When I eat white toast, it’s hard to stop. However, after a slice or two of whole wheat toast, I feel satisfied. Whole grains signal to our bodies when we’ve had enough. Plus, whole grains won’t spike your glucose levels like white breads (important even if you aren’t diabetic) and contain lots of fiber.

Lastly, whole wheat is easier to store. All-purpose flour is prone to going rancid or stale if it sits on the shelf, but whole wheat berries will last indefinitely as long as they are kept cool and dry. (Here are more details about my bulk-buying strategies and methods.)

Are you convinced yet? Sweet!

If you’re brand new to wheat berries & whole wheat flour, start with this post.

If you’re interested in milling your own freshly-ground flour, this post will give you the scoop.

And if you’re ready to dive into the baking, here are three crucial rules that will ensure your whole wheat baking success.

Whole Wheat Sourdough Rule #1: Absorption is Different

Compared to processed flour, whole wheat flour absorbs water much more slowly. This means if you treat whole wheat dough like all-purpose flour dough, you’re going to have major issues. Here’s how to adjust for these absorption differences:

1. Embrace Autolyse: This simply means mixing flour and water and letting it sit for 20-30 minutes before you proceed. This hydrates and softens the bran and germ, improving elasticity and making it easier to knead.
2. Increase Hydration: If you’re converting an all-purpose recipe to whole wheat flour, add a bit more liquid than you usually would.
3. Focus on Feel, Not Formula: This is excellent advice for all breads, but especially whole wheat. Learn to monitor the dough’s feel and texture, rather than relying strictly on the recipe. The dough will tell you what it needs when you learn to listen.

Whole Wheat Sourdough Rule #2: Kneading is Necessary

“No knead” is all the rage, but it may be the kiss of death for whole wheat breads. In our conversation, Mary stressed the importance of kneading well. Thorough kneading helps develop gluten structure, which compensates for the bran and germ cutting up our precious gluten strands. The strength of the rise is directly connected to kneading. The longer you knead, the better the rise. (And the soaking step mentioned above helps even more.)

If you’re kneading by hand, work the dough for at least 10 minutes. If you’re using a mixer, knead for 15-20 minutes (Mary uses speed two on her mixer). If you’re using the stretch and fold technique (popular in many sourdough bread recipes, but not required here), plan on numerous folding sessions over the course of 1-2 hours.

Regardless of what method you use, knead your dough until it’s soft, glossy, and can stretch without breaking. The more care you take to build the gluten and structure, the more success you’ll have with your bread. And the more you bake, the faster you’ll develop “baker’s intuition” and be able to tell when the dough is done just by feeling it. Until then, use these time suggestions to help ensure success with your whole wheat.

Whole Wheat Sourdough Rule #3: Adjust Those Expectations

Whole wheat bread will never be exactly the same as an all-purpose loaf or store-bought bread, nor should it be. Expect loaves that aren’t as soft and fluffy, but flavor that is richer, fuller, and nuttier. That said, as you learn to appreciate whole wheat breads for what they are, you may find yourself preferring them to white bread. There’s something immensely satisfying about a loaf made with freshly-ground flour, especially one created with wild yeast. It’s more filling, more substantial, more nutritious, and your body definitely knows it. 

Don’t Rush the Rise!

One of the biggest mistakes new bakers make is rushing the rise—especially when baking with sourdough. This is one area where you must feel your starter and dough—you can’t rely strictly on the recipe times.

The exact length of the rise will depend on your sourdough starter. A young one will take longer to rise, while an established, active starter may only need 4-6 hours. The more you use your starter, the better (and more consistent) it will get. If you have gluten sensitivities, allow the dough to rise on the counter for a few hours, then pop it into the fridge for 8-24 hours to finish the fermentation process. This further breaks down the dough, and while it won’t eliminate gluten, it makes the bread more digestible.

Mary generously allowed me to share her whole wheat sourdough recipe with you today. It uses simple ingredients and yields a delicious loaf you can use for sandwiches, toast, or just eating with butter.

100% Whole Wheat Sourdough Bread Recipe

(Created by Mary of The Rose Homestead and shared with permission)

Ingredients:

• 1 cup non-chlorinated water
• 1/2 cup active, fed sourdough starter
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons honey
• 1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt
• 3 1/2 cups freshly ground whole wheat flour (plus 2-3 tablespoons for kneading)

Instructions:

1. Start this process the night before you plan to bake the loaf. In a large bowl, add the water, starter, and flour. Mix well, then let the dough rest for 20-30 minutes to soften the bran and germ.
2. Add in the oil, honey, and salt.
3. Knead for 10 minutes. You may add a small amount of flour (2-3 tablespoons) if the dough seems very sticky, but be cautious about adding too much. If you’re using a stand mixer, knead for 15-20 minutes. (Mary uses speed 2 on her mixer for this.)
4. Place the dough in a greased bowl for bulk fermentation (aka first rise). Cover with plastic wrap or a wet kitchen towel. Rest on the counter at room temperature overnight. (If your house is cool, place the bowl in a warm place.)
5. The next morning, turn the dough onto a floured surface. Pat it out gently into a rectangular shape. Gently roll the dough up into a loaf shape. (If the dough is sticky during this step, I prefer to handle it with wet hands rather than adding more flour.)
6. Place the shaped loaf into a greased 9×5-inch pan. Cover with a tea towel and set it aside in a warm spot for the second rise. It’s ready when it begins to peek over the top of the pan.
7. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.
8. Brush the top of the dough with an egg wash (this step is optional but yields a lovely golden brown crust).
9. Bake for 40-45 minutes until deep golden brown. Let the loaf cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then carefully remove it to a cooling rack.

Notes

• You can control the sourness of your loaves with temperature. A cold fermentation yields sourer bread. A quick, warm fermentation time yields a milder tasting bread. If you’re very adverse to sour flavor, consider investing in a proofing box so you have more control over the dough rise temperatures and fermentation time.
• You can use store-bought whole wheat flour for this recipe; just fluff it with a fork first. Freshly-ground flours haven’t settled, so they are light and fluffy. Since this recipe measures by volume, not weight, exact amounts vary a bit.
• If you prefer the exactness of cooking by weight, here’s another whole wheat bread recipe from Mary that uses grams.
• This recipe will be most consistent with standard wheat berry varieties (think hard red wheat or hard white wheat). It’s very possible to use spelt or einkorn for delicious 100% whole wheat breads, but Einkorn especially is a very different process. If you plan to use freshly-milled einkorn, allow the dough to ferment overnight. Don’t knead einkorn dough—just roll it out and fold it back over itself a few times. Einkorn has the weakest gluten structure, so you must handle it carefully. I recommend starting with standard wheat flours, then experimenting with einkorn as you gain confidence and experience.
• You don’t need a whole wheat sourdough starter for this recipe. Any starter will do!

Remember: sourdough is as much an art as it is a science. Give yourself grace as you master its nuances, and expect to make some breadcrumbs along the way. 

Print

Learn More About Sourdough Here:

• Take the Stress Out of Sourdough with my ebook
• How to Revive an Old Sourdough Starter
• Unlocking the Wheat Berry Puzzle
• My Long Road Back to Whole Wheat Flours
• Solving Sourdough: The Science Behind What Works